Saturday 16th July
El Pescadero to Cabo San Lucas
I say tried to get some sleep as I found it near on impossible, what with the heat, barking dogs and odd car driving past. I must have got some sleep eventually though, as the chorus of cockerels woke me up around 6am. I couldn’t get back to sleep and saw the opportunity for a free nights stay, so quickly packed up my tent and rode back to Todos Santos.
Although getting a bad nights sleep isn’t ideal, there are some advantages, the main one being that you’re up and on the road early. I always feel like I’ve got the day all to myself at that time of the morning, it’s a strange feeling to describe but I love it. It was gloriously cool as I made my way back to Todos Santos, and as the sun rose I listened to a song I associate with sunrises and sunsets, and had one of those rare moments of complete contentment. I didn’t want to be anywhere else doing anything else, just riding along an empty road with the coolness of the morning and the sun on my side was enough.
Todos Santos was still waking up at 7am, so after a quick google and a look on trip advisor, I found a cafe that was open slightly off the beaten track. It was just what I was looking for, and after a really scrummy breakfast of blueberry and banana flax pancakes, REAL maple syrup and butter, and a selection of fruit, I enjoyed the relaxing location and wrote my blog.
After being there a couple of hours I decided to have a ride round the town and take some photos, so rode back in to the centre. It was horribly hot in my bike gear, and I was quickly cursing the expensive hotels and my measly budget. I would have really liked to have settled there for a night or two and got to enjoy the cafes and town at leisure, without all my gear, but here I was traipsing around sweating my tits off.
And it was then that I suddenly became disheartened, as I realised that the whole southern portion of the peninsular was probably the same; overpriced and aimed at American tourists. I didn’t really know what to do with myself then, where to go, where to stay, and I suddenly felt alienated. But just as I was having this low moment, stood outside the Hotel California, a couple of guys came over and introduced themselves.
Eddie and Ortega were from Cabo San Lucas, and had come over to me to invite me to a big bike meet that was there. Needless to say that they couldn’t have come over at a better time, and suddenly all was well in my world again. They said that a load of bikers were having a ride out to Todos Santos, and that I should join them and ride back to Cabo San Lucas for the party. That sounded like a plan to me, so I took up a table outside a restaurant opposite, and enjoyed an ice-cold water in the shade, while chatting to the friendly and rather good-looking waiter. And true to their word, an hour and a half later a big group of bikers appeared, in all their loud, leathery, Harley Davidson glory.
They growled and rumbled their way in to town, before lining their bikes up outside the Hotel California. Well I just couldn’t resist getting my bike and lining it up with theirs, and they instantly swarmed around it.
I have to admit that it did look rather ridiculous lined up with all the bigger bikes, especially considering that my bike looks ridiculous even on its own! The whole group were really friendly and curious, and took photos and chatted to me as they all had some nibbles and drinks in the hotel.
My Spanish is limited but I did my best, and I told them a little bit about my trip and where I was going. It was ridiculously hot by this point, and I was going through water like it was going out of fashion, so was pleased when the time finally came to get moving.
We all jumped on our bikes and rode out of town in a group, but it wasn’t long before slowcoach here was left on her own. I wasn’t able to keep up with any of the bikes, or the ambulance that was following for that matter, but I didn’t mind. I’m not a big fan of riding in groups and would much rather ride on my own anyway, which is lucky really seeing as I could never keep up with anyone!
I eventually arrived in Cabo San Lucas gasping for a drink, and after stopping to buy a bottle of ice cold milk, I made my way down to the marina where the event was being held. I instantly noticed how big and built up Cabo was, it screamed tourism, and had I not been there for an event I think I would have ridden straight through and on to the next place!
The event didn’t kick off until later, so I spent the afternoon hanging around with the few people that were already there. They were very friendly and I did my best to chat to them and answer their questions in my limited Spanish, while enjoying some yummy seafood tostadas and cold water. As time went on it started to fill up with more people and more bikes, and as the guys proudly introduced me to their friends and members of their clubs (each with their own outfits and what they call colours), which meant talking to even more people in Spanish, I started to become exhausted.
In fact I was so tired from a bad nights sleep, and having to think really hard to converse in a language I barely knew, it got to the point where my brain decided that it had done enough for one day and wasn’t going to work any more. I was literally speechless. Thankfully though that was at the exact point that I met Ricardo, who spoke excellent English and also had a Honda CBR600RR, which I used to own. It was so good to be able to speak in my own language for a while, and it made me realise how it takes basically no effort to talk in your mother tongue. Ricardo was a really lovely guy, and worked at the dolphin centre just behind where we were, and before I knew it I had an invite to swim with them the following day.
The time soon came for all the bikers to have another big ride out to another town, and despite having multiple invitations to sit on the back of peoples bikes for it, I couldn’t face being surrounded by so many Harleys and the noise that comes with them. My hearing is already damaged, and just the thought of having to listen to over 200 Harleys in one place was enough to make my tinnitus spike! Needless to say that it was bliss once they’d all left, and I revelled in the peace and quiet.
There were only a few of us left, and as it would be a while before they came back, a guy called Carlos who I’d been chatting to (in English) asked if I wanted to visit a multi million dollar house he worked at, that had a pool. Well the mere mention of a swimming pool was enough for me to say yes, and we jumped in the car and made our way up the hill.
There were great views out over the city, and after a short drive we’d arrived at the house. It was absolutely massive, and was right on the beach overlooking the sea. I’d never want to own a massive house, but I sure do like to have a nose around them! One of the bathrooms was as big as my bedroom at home, and the bedroom on the ground floor went straight out on to the beach, it was gorgeous.
A couple were actually getting married on the beach when we were there, and we watched proceedings while having a soak in the infinity pool, thoroughly enjoying the peace and tranquility.
It was hard to tear ourselves away, but as it was getting dark and the temperature was dropping, we decided to head back to the event. It was really busy when we got back, and everyone appeared to be enjoying the music and booze in equal measure.
I felt a bit more refreshed after my dip and my brain had fired up again, which was lucky as I appeared to have become somewhat of a celebrity! Every man and his dog wanted to talk to me and have their photo taken with me (sadly I don‘t have any of the photos, there were lots!) and I have to admit that it was all rather surreal. But people were just so intrigued and curious, not to mention surprised and impressed, which I also find strange. To me I’m just a normal girl travelling on a normal(ish) bike, and I don’t get what there is to be impressed about. But I guess I have to realise that for some people it’s pretty different and out there, especially being a solo female, in Mexico. Everyone was so friendly though and really made me feel a part of it, and I even got given a gift of a tiny little bell, along with various stickers and a tiny shoe (no I dont know why either!)
From what I could gather the bell is supposed to keep you safe on the road, and you can only be given one, you can‘t buy one or ask for one. I was really touched by the gesture, it was so kind and thoughtful. I did laugh when they told me that I had to put it on the lowest part of my bike though (i.e. my bash plate). They obviously didn’t have a clue about my track record of smashing that on to rocks, and then theres the quantity and severity of the topes in Mexico! No, putting it on my bash plate is definitely not a good idea, the basket will have to suffice.
After hanging out with Ricardo and his wife for the remainder of the night, everyone was still partying hard when I decided it was time to slip away and find a hotel. I was absolutely exhausted, and wanted nothing more than a quiet room and a comfortable bed. It was nearly 12am and I didn’t fancy riding around looking for somewhere, so had to settle for the cheapest motel that I could find online, which at 680 pesos certainly wasn’t cheap! I saw the comedy in the fact that it was 180 pesos more than the cheapest one in Todos Santos that I couldn’t afford, but at that moment in time it was totally needed and I really didn’t care. I made a quick and quiet exit, in fear my plan of sleep would be intercepted, and made my way to my hotel. Although after going to the address in my confirmation email, I soon discovered that it was the wrong address, and after a thirty minute round trip through the streets of Cabo San Lucas, I finally arrived at the correct address, which was literally two minutes away from the event! Typical. But I’d made it, and man was it good to put my feet up and close my eyes; what a day.